As Julia Yuan, an advertising company executive in her mid-20s, lines up to get lunch at a Starbucks outlet in the city of Wuxi in East China, she zeros in on a meatless lasagna. “I’m moving away from meat,” she says. “Everyone says meat is killing the earth, so it makes me feel good…like I’m doing my part.”

Till a few years ago, people like Yuan were very much the exception in China, a nation known in recent decades for its heavy consumption of meat. But attitudes are changing, especially among the urban young. Big piles of pork in the middle of the dining table are beginning to give way to plant-based substitutes prepared and presented to appeal to the palates of environmentally aware youngsters.

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